SKU VID-1186
Designer:
Becky Nunn
In this video you will learn how to use colorized resin in an open frame hoop to create pendants and components for your jewelry. For this technique you will also need packing tape, gloves, and a toothpick.
FEATURED IN THIS VIDEO
Audio Transcript
Note: This audio transcript is auto-generated and may not be completely accurate.
hi this is becky nunn and i'm on location here at beadaholique these are the open frame hoops filled with colorized resin pretty fabulous huh so it starts out with hoops like this you can use the open frames such as you have here or the open frame hoops once you mix your resin and add the color inside here are some examples of the different ways in which you can create pieces with this technique here are some of the things that you will need to do the colorized resin and the open frames you'll need some packing tape some scissors if you're using any kind of items that you need to cut off the loop you'll need a pair of flush cutters you will need some Nunn design resin that is pre-mixed following the manufacturer's instructions I have some casting craft pigments this is what I'll be using to colorize my resin an extra little couple to pour off the resin into for mixing and I have a couple of stir sticks and some sello bags the first step is going to be putting some packing tape on the back of your pieces so that you have a surface that they resin can rest against if you do have pieces like this that you want to use to create a negative space with inside of the piece you'll want to take a pair of flush cutters and go ahead and trim off that loop don't worry about the mark showing right here you can use your flush cutters to trim that off but that will be covered completely by resin once it's embedded inside of the piece so these are the two designs that we're going to be working with but there's all kinds of combinations up on things that you can put together as you saw in the initial samples for example you could do something like this or you can cut off the loop and do some like this and you can also mix your color combinations to do really fun things even little pieces like this just fill these with resin and put a little earring onto the back glue a little post on the back to create a pair of really fun post earrings thing that you'll want to make sure that you do is that whatever you are placing in the center is equal height to the item that's on the outside rim here are some examples of pieces that didn't work so well for me when I initially tried this I put a jump ring inside but even having that excess little slit there even though I thought it was really flush it gave way for the resin to fill inside of the hole so these examples were using different types of jump rings even jump rings that I thought would be plenty high enough the jump ring had that slit and therefore the resin filled in and if that does happen what you can do is just pour excess resin over the top of it and then drill a hole into the piece if you'd like but having the pieces match up in height is the best way and making sure that it's one continuous loop so that the resin doesn't seep into the hole is another way to prevent it from filling in the next step is going to be using the packing tape to put onto the back of the open frame hoops or the open frame pendants pull off a piece of packing tape and one thing to know is that not all packing tape is the same sometimes you might have some marbling that is happening with the glue that marbling we're not seeing any on this particular role but that marbling will show up on your cured resin so try to have a really transparent piece of packing tape if you don't it's not a big deal and I'll show you some examples of where it does show up when it's on the cured resin it still looks lovely on the backside so I take my first open frame hoop cut off the piece of packing tape and then laid it down and you just gently burnish it until all four all the sides have a nice contact then to create that loop there so now I have a connector the thread in a jump ring or a chain or a piece of suede or whatever you'd like to add on so make sure that that is on there too I'm making sure that I don't touch the tape so that my fingerprints aren't showing up on the tape either the once you have the piece already burnished down go ahead and trim off your excess of your tape because it's really easy for this tape to get attached to your clothes or to your work surface and you don't want to have any areas that the resin can be disturbed I'll go ahead and do this one as well so this is I'm going to create this one a little bit farther down so this is just going to create like a negative space on my piece lay that piece down first finish it nicely lay that second piece in wherever you would like to have that positioned and burnish that and trim away the excess all right so now we have our two pieces that we're going to be working with you want to mix up a batch of the Nunn design resin one to one equal part and this has already been mixed I like to use just a small bit at a time you saw all of the different colors that I created you can create a lot of different colors out of this one batch but just to do small batches I think I'll add a little bit more because I'm going to add I'm going to make two pieces here then using the casting craft this is an opaque pigment I'm going to colorize my clear Nunn design resin you will only need a tiny tiny bit of the blue end of the yellow when actually I'm going to have my piece be really opaque so I'm going to start actually with the white so I'm just going to put a little bit of the white in to start so the rule of thumb when working with the casting cat craft opaque pigments is these colorants cannot be more than 10% of the resin that I'm using otherwise it will not cure it will remain sticky and tacky so I'm putting a little bit of white in there first and that'll give me a nice opaque palette to work with if I wanted it to be more of a transparent look I would just use the blue and the yellow but I want mine to be really opaque kind of reminds me of frosting then next I'm going to use a tiny bite I'm just turning my casting craft pigment up and squeezing it slightly so I can use my toothpick to go in and get a tiny tiny bit I mean very very little I'm just going to make a really really light color of like a teal color so you saw that that just that tiny tiny bit so now I have a really pretty robin's egg blue almost just with that tiny little bit and now I'll add a little bit of yellow to create a little bit more of a tea or green color so tiny tiny bit just mix that in here and notice that I'm I'm using different toothpicks and I'm putting it back onto a little cloth right here so I don't get it all over my work surface I also notice that I got a little bit of the blue on my stir stick I'm not too thick so I'm just going to use a little wet wipe to just wipe that off to make sure that that doesn't add into my color because as you saw that blue goes a long ways so now I have a really pale really pale greenish blue you know in depending if I wanted to add a little more yellow or a little more blue you would alter the the color but let's just start off with I actually I think I will just add a teeny bit she already had some on that toothpick and I still have a little bit on this toothpick just adding a tiny bit more let's see what we come up with me will get a little bit more of a look how much that just transformed that to a little bit darker of a of a green very pretty alright so now we're ready we've got our hoops all ready with the tape on the back we have our Nunn design resin mixed up we're ready to pour our colourize resin into our bezel I like to work with a little card because it makes it easier for me to not have to touch that and I can turn it around like you're seeing here so I place a card down first and I like to do one at a time so this one after I'm done with this I can transfer it onto the card just so that there's no way that I can get my hands placed onto that tape and potentially damage or risk the chance of its spilling over so next I'm going to take my stir stick and I'm just going to slowly drizzle a little bit of the resin right into the channel area that I want if you want it to be filled one thing that's nice about working with the colorant and not just a clear resin is I'm not as concerned about my air bubbles as I would be if I was working with like a transfer sheet or a collage sheet underneath I just know that these air bubbles are going to dissipate with time I'm actually spilling a little bit I'm dripping a little bit on to my work surface normally I would like to have like another little ziplock right here just to make sure that it just makes cleanup much faster and I also don't risk getting that resin on another piece so I just slowly drill drizzled the resin into the bezel cavity that I wanted it to be and if you want to use a toothpick you can go in there and agitate it like I under filled it I'm giving myself some ability to go in and just go along those edges right here I'm just kind of making sure that there's not any air pockets inside of there and if there was any air pockets I would know about them right away and it would allow the air bubbles to release and to come to the surface that's that piece so we can just move that aside put on our next piece and start to fill it so this resin is setting up fairly quickly you don't want to be using it when it gets really really thick and for this particular example and I'll show you why I've had a lot of air pot marks show up as the resin is off gassing and if you wait until it's super super thick there's not enough time for the air to off gas out of the resin and it can create little pop marks and you don't have a nice smooth surface and like I said I'll go ahead and show you what I'm talking about so when I have a tighter area like this I'll stop drizzling and I'll just come in with my toothpick and I'll just gradually pull that resin over into that area and fill this cavity and it's really a good idea to go inside here and make sure that you have agitated this area just to make sure that that resin there's not any air pockets down on the backside because it'll show when that resin cures and on the backside so then you'll want to let those two pieces set for a little bit you'll probably about 12 hours until that's really hard to the touch here's an example as I was mentioning that when your resin starts to get really really thick there's not a lot of time for the resin to off-gas and it will create little pop marks on there like that actually that's a really cool look in itself so if you like that look wait till your president gets really thick and then put it in kind of has a more of a concrete looking and on the backside you see these little marbled areas that we're seeing this is examples of a tape that didn't have a really clear glue and it had like little splotches well those little splotches show up on the the resin it's not it's not the sticky tape it's actually in the resin and here's an example of when you don't go in and agitate around this really channel area it's easy to get a little pot mark this is like a little air bubble that was attached to the plastic when I was moving the toothpick around this really thin channel area don't be too nervous about really going in there and touching along where the tape line is to make sure that you're releasing any of the bubbles otherwise little things like that will show up in this area and again here's a good example of you can see thus that little modeling that that's the glue on the back of the tape so not all the tape is created equal sometimes it has more of that modelled blue look these pieces are already cured and they're very hard to the touch so the next step would be just to release this tape from the back side we're doing here and there will be some sticky residue that shows up on the back side some pieces maybe more so than others and how you will get rid of that is you can take a piece of tape and just tap on it like you're seeing me do here where I'm just releasing that tape off the backside like when you're removing lint from your shirt or your cat hair from your sweater you just keep on doing it over and over again and it'll you can see the tape residue is starting to release off if you have some extra stubborn stubborn tape residue that's not coming off you want to go ahead and use this very well-loved Googe on this is last forever you want to take a little bit of this just put a couple of drops right on the piece and then let that sit for I think it says in the directions to let it sit for a minute and then go in and start to scrub away at the goog on it's good idea to put it on a piece of plastic or something first and then you just scrub on this like this and then the pieces that glue will just release and then you just use little bit of soap and water and just wash your piece and you'll have a nice residue free piece at the end of that here's some finished samples of the pieces that you can create using this technique by just adding on a couple of jump rings to create a piece like that this just has a single jump ring and then the chain going through it that way or you can even tie off a piece and just created a simple little knot there you can also use the hoop earrings this exact same technique here's the backside and just putting on a little flat bed earring post and then you have an adorable pair of little post earrings that you can create and here are some samples of is the exact same technique that we would just walk through but a variety of different ways that you can create different looks so for example these were pieces I was testing this was before we developed this open hooped area but I was testing put in some black colorized resin and then just has some mica powders that are just sprinkled is tapped onto it and it kind of bleeds on and you can use a toothpick to kind of smear it around in the resin to create a look like that here's another one where I just put the white resin in and put a couple of little little rocks right into the piece to create a fun look like that and this is mica flakes didn't work as well because the micro flakes were a little bit higher if I had put less resin in and then put the mica flakes on and then put a clear resin that probably would have worked a little bit better but it's not a very smooth look there and this is another these are wireframes where did all of this exact same technique that were using here with colorized resin mica powders but just showing how you can take this same technique of using an open frame colorizing resin and create just an endless amount of fun creations this is becky nunn here on location at beadaholique to you how to use colorized resin in an open frame I hope you had a good time you
hi this is becky nunn and i'm on location here at beadaholique these are the open frame hoops filled with colorized resin pretty fabulous huh so it starts out with hoops like this you can use the open frames such as you have here or the open frame hoops once you mix your resin and add the color inside here are some examples of the different ways in which you can create pieces with this technique here are some of the things that you will need to do the colorized resin and the open frames you'll need some packing tape some scissors if you're using any kind of items that you need to cut off the loop you'll need a pair of flush cutters you will need some Nunn design resin that is pre-mixed following the manufacturer's instructions I have some casting craft pigments this is what I'll be using to colorize my resin an extra little couple to pour off the resin into for mixing and I have a couple of stir sticks and some sello bags the first step is going to be putting some packing tape on the back of your pieces so that you have a surface that they resin can rest against if you do have pieces like this that you want to use to create a negative space with inside of the piece you'll want to take a pair of flush cutters and go ahead and trim off that loop don't worry about the mark showing right here you can use your flush cutters to trim that off but that will be covered completely by resin once it's embedded inside of the piece so these are the two designs that we're going to be working with but there's all kinds of combinations up on things that you can put together as you saw in the initial samples for example you could do something like this or you can cut off the loop and do some like this and you can also mix your color combinations to do really fun things even little pieces like this just fill these with resin and put a little earring onto the back glue a little post on the back to create a pair of really fun post earrings thing that you'll want to make sure that you do is that whatever you are placing in the center is equal height to the item that's on the outside rim here are some examples of pieces that didn't work so well for me when I initially tried this I put a jump ring inside but even having that excess little slit there even though I thought it was really flush it gave way for the resin to fill inside of the hole so these examples were using different types of jump rings even jump rings that I thought would be plenty high enough the jump ring had that slit and therefore the resin filled in and if that does happen what you can do is just pour excess resin over the top of it and then drill a hole into the piece if you'd like but having the pieces match up in height is the best way and making sure that it's one continuous loop so that the resin doesn't seep into the hole is another way to prevent it from filling in the next step is going to be using the packing tape to put onto the back of the open frame hoops or the open frame pendants pull off a piece of packing tape and one thing to know is that not all packing tape is the same sometimes you might have some marbling that is happening with the glue that marbling we're not seeing any on this particular role but that marbling will show up on your cured resin so try to have a really transparent piece of packing tape if you don't it's not a big deal and I'll show you some examples of where it does show up when it's on the cured resin it still looks lovely on the backside so I take my first open frame hoop cut off the piece of packing tape and then laid it down and you just gently burnish it until all four all the sides have a nice contact then to create that loop there so now I have a connector the thread in a jump ring or a chain or a piece of suede or whatever you'd like to add on so make sure that that is on there too I'm making sure that I don't touch the tape so that my fingerprints aren't showing up on the tape either the once you have the piece already burnished down go ahead and trim off your excess of your tape because it's really easy for this tape to get attached to your clothes or to your work surface and you don't want to have any areas that the resin can be disturbed I'll go ahead and do this one as well so this is I'm going to create this one a little bit farther down so this is just going to create like a negative space on my piece lay that piece down first finish it nicely lay that second piece in wherever you would like to have that positioned and burnish that and trim away the excess all right so now we have our two pieces that we're going to be working with you want to mix up a batch of the Nunn design resin one to one equal part and this has already been mixed I like to use just a small bit at a time you saw all of the different colors that I created you can create a lot of different colors out of this one batch but just to do small batches I think I'll add a little bit more because I'm going to add I'm going to make two pieces here then using the casting craft this is an opaque pigment I'm going to colorize my clear Nunn design resin you will only need a tiny tiny bit of the blue end of the yellow when actually I'm going to have my piece be really opaque so I'm going to start actually with the white so I'm just going to put a little bit of the white in to start so the rule of thumb when working with the casting cat craft opaque pigments is these colorants cannot be more than 10% of the resin that I'm using otherwise it will not cure it will remain sticky and tacky so I'm putting a little bit of white in there first and that'll give me a nice opaque palette to work with if I wanted it to be more of a transparent look I would just use the blue and the yellow but I want mine to be really opaque kind of reminds me of frosting then next I'm going to use a tiny bite I'm just turning my casting craft pigment up and squeezing it slightly so I can use my toothpick to go in and get a tiny tiny bit I mean very very little I'm just going to make a really really light color of like a teal color so you saw that that just that tiny tiny bit so now I have a really pretty robin's egg blue almost just with that tiny little bit and now I'll add a little bit of yellow to create a little bit more of a tea or green color so tiny tiny bit just mix that in here and notice that I'm I'm using different toothpicks and I'm putting it back onto a little cloth right here so I don't get it all over my work surface I also notice that I got a little bit of the blue on my stir stick I'm not too thick so I'm just going to use a little wet wipe to just wipe that off to make sure that that doesn't add into my color because as you saw that blue goes a long ways so now I have a really pale really pale greenish blue you know in depending if I wanted to add a little more yellow or a little more blue you would alter the the color but let's just start off with I actually I think I will just add a teeny bit she already had some on that toothpick and I still have a little bit on this toothpick just adding a tiny bit more let's see what we come up with me will get a little bit more of a look how much that just transformed that to a little bit darker of a of a green very pretty alright so now we're ready we've got our hoops all ready with the tape on the back we have our Nunn design resin mixed up we're ready to pour our colourize resin into our bezel I like to work with a little card because it makes it easier for me to not have to touch that and I can turn it around like you're seeing here so I place a card down first and I like to do one at a time so this one after I'm done with this I can transfer it onto the card just so that there's no way that I can get my hands placed onto that tape and potentially damage or risk the chance of its spilling over so next I'm going to take my stir stick and I'm just going to slowly drizzle a little bit of the resin right into the channel area that I want if you want it to be filled one thing that's nice about working with the colorant and not just a clear resin is I'm not as concerned about my air bubbles as I would be if I was working with like a transfer sheet or a collage sheet underneath I just know that these air bubbles are going to dissipate with time I'm actually spilling a little bit I'm dripping a little bit on to my work surface normally I would like to have like another little ziplock right here just to make sure that it just makes cleanup much faster and I also don't risk getting that resin on another piece so I just slowly drill drizzled the resin into the bezel cavity that I wanted it to be and if you want to use a toothpick you can go in there and agitate it like I under filled it I'm giving myself some ability to go in and just go along those edges right here I'm just kind of making sure that there's not any air pockets inside of there and if there was any air pockets I would know about them right away and it would allow the air bubbles to release and to come to the surface that's that piece so we can just move that aside put on our next piece and start to fill it so this resin is setting up fairly quickly you don't want to be using it when it gets really really thick and for this particular example and I'll show you why I've had a lot of air pot marks show up as the resin is off gassing and if you wait until it's super super thick there's not enough time for the air to off gas out of the resin and it can create little pop marks and you don't have a nice smooth surface and like I said I'll go ahead and show you what I'm talking about so when I have a tighter area like this I'll stop drizzling and I'll just come in with my toothpick and I'll just gradually pull that resin over into that area and fill this cavity and it's really a good idea to go inside here and make sure that you have agitated this area just to make sure that that resin there's not any air pockets down on the backside because it'll show when that resin cures and on the backside so then you'll want to let those two pieces set for a little bit you'll probably about 12 hours until that's really hard to the touch here's an example as I was mentioning that when your resin starts to get really really thick there's not a lot of time for the resin to off-gas and it will create little pop marks on there like that actually that's a really cool look in itself so if you like that look wait till your president gets really thick and then put it in kind of has a more of a concrete looking and on the backside you see these little marbled areas that we're seeing this is examples of a tape that didn't have a really clear glue and it had like little splotches well those little splotches show up on the the resin it's not it's not the sticky tape it's actually in the resin and here's an example of when you don't go in and agitate around this really channel area it's easy to get a little pot mark this is like a little air bubble that was attached to the plastic when I was moving the toothpick around this really thin channel area don't be too nervous about really going in there and touching along where the tape line is to make sure that you're releasing any of the bubbles otherwise little things like that will show up in this area and again here's a good example of you can see thus that little modeling that that's the glue on the back of the tape so not all the tape is created equal sometimes it has more of that modelled blue look these pieces are already cured and they're very hard to the touch so the next step would be just to release this tape from the back side we're doing here and there will be some sticky residue that shows up on the back side some pieces maybe more so than others and how you will get rid of that is you can take a piece of tape and just tap on it like you're seeing me do here where I'm just releasing that tape off the backside like when you're removing lint from your shirt or your cat hair from your sweater you just keep on doing it over and over again and it'll you can see the tape residue is starting to release off if you have some extra stubborn stubborn tape residue that's not coming off you want to go ahead and use this very well-loved Googe on this is last forever you want to take a little bit of this just put a couple of drops right on the piece and then let that sit for I think it says in the directions to let it sit for a minute and then go in and start to scrub away at the goog on it's good idea to put it on a piece of plastic or something first and then you just scrub on this like this and then the pieces that glue will just release and then you just use little bit of soap and water and just wash your piece and you'll have a nice residue free piece at the end of that here's some finished samples of the pieces that you can create using this technique by just adding on a couple of jump rings to create a piece like that this just has a single jump ring and then the chain going through it that way or you can even tie off a piece and just created a simple little knot there you can also use the hoop earrings this exact same technique here's the backside and just putting on a little flat bed earring post and then you have an adorable pair of little post earrings that you can create and here are some samples of is the exact same technique that we would just walk through but a variety of different ways that you can create different looks so for example these were pieces I was testing this was before we developed this open hooped area but I was testing put in some black colorized resin and then just has some mica powders that are just sprinkled is tapped onto it and it kind of bleeds on and you can use a toothpick to kind of smear it around in the resin to create a look like that here's another one where I just put the white resin in and put a couple of little little rocks right into the piece to create a fun look like that and this is mica flakes didn't work as well because the micro flakes were a little bit higher if I had put less resin in and then put the mica flakes on and then put a clear resin that probably would have worked a little bit better but it's not a very smooth look there and this is another these are wireframes where did all of this exact same technique that were using here with colorized resin mica powders but just showing how you can take this same technique of using an open frame colorizing resin and create just an endless amount of fun creations this is becky nunn here on location at beadaholique to you how to use colorized resin in an open frame I hope you had a good time you
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