How to Bead Weave a Toggle Clasp

SKU VID-0095
Designer: Julie Bean
Learn how to bead weave a toggle clasp using a combination of brick stitch and peyote stitch. This round part of the clasp was made using a 20mm Quick Link round but any circular form will do. Three types of beads are used, 2 which are size 11/0 and 1 which is size 15/0. Make a custom toggle to match your bead weaving projects.
Audio Transcript
Note: This audio transcript is auto-generated and may not be completely accurate.
Hi, this is Julie with and today I want to show you to bead weave your own toggle clasp we've used two different stitches. We've done a brick stitch and a peyote stitch and we're gonna make the actual the round part of the top of clasp. To begin with you want to gather your materials I have a quick link right here which is a nice solid ring. This is a size twenty millimeters I have three different types of seed beads. I have two size 11/0. I have a Toho and I have a Miyuki and there in two different colors and then I have a size 15/0 Miyuki. You can use whatever beads you want. It's important that you have two of the same size and then one of the smaller size I have some beading thread which I've already cut myself a length which is about four-and-a-half feet long and I conditioned my thread and then I have a beading needle, size twelve, a pair of scissors and a very handy thread zapper to begin your gonna wanna go ahead and condition your thread and thread your needle onto it I don't have a bead stopper on the other end. It's just a length of thread and to start we're going to put the thread into the inside the loop, pull it through until you have about the length of about six to eight inches coming through the other side and we are going to tie a surgeon's knot. The way to do that is you go under and pull tight and then you do the same process, go and take the top thread go under the bottom one and under again and pull tight. Pull that snug since my darker color is going to be my interior round pour out some of my size 11/0 tohos onto my needle and take two of them pull those all the way down until they reach your quick link and then go behind the link pull your thread through keep your beads on top of the link pass your needle through the second bead you strung onto your thread and then pull your thread through you see that the actual band of the thread is coming across and under the bottom of the quick link this time we're going to take one bead pull it all the way down we want to rest on top of that quick link and to get it to do that by pulling your thread through the middle of the quick link go back up through that same bead we just strung pull it tight so it nestles close up to your other beads do that one more time pull a bead down pull your needle through the middle of the quick link you want your beads stay on that side pass your needle back through the bead you just strung pull tight and make sure it scoots up along the edge keep doing that until you complete your entire round using the size 11/0 beads and in my case they're in purple I've finished beading around my quick link for this first round of the dark purple beads. I'm ready to add my last bead I've got this tail. I'm just going to grasp it in my hand. I eventually weave that back into my bead work to secure it but for right now I just want to keep it out of the way add one last bead follow the same process pull your needle through the middle of that quick link back up through the bead that you just strung pull that secure now I want to go through the top of that first bead I strung in the row pull my thread and needle through the middle of the quick link out the other side and then backup through that original bead again so I have a solid round to go up to the next row take two beads again size 11/0 but of my second color pull those down now I'm going to pass through the first bridge of thread which was connecting, so a bridge of thread between all my beads on this first row. So the first bridge of thread I'm going to pass my needle under pull it through now up through the second bead I strung on that second row and pull I'm going to pick up one bead now I'm going to go under the second bridge of thread pull through and back up in that bead I just strung in doing this I'm actually creating nice bridges of thread on the second row as well that I'll be able to use for my third row you do that all the way around until you get to the point where you started again I've stitched a few more beads along my second row and I want to show you a design choice you make at this point before progressing any further if you were to stitch one of the size 11/0 bead per bridge of thread between the other beads you're gonna get these gaps between your beads and they're uniformed. This is definitely a design choice, you can have it look like that or as you see in the finished example here there's not so much space between each bead and if you prefer to have the beads tighter together like I do in the sample piece and not have these gaps what you want to do is go ahead pick up your bead as usual pull it down and then instead of automatically choosing to go between the next bridge of thread you might end up going between the same bridge of thread on a previous bead and that's going to be dependent upon how tightly together your beads are so in some cases you'll have two beads per bridge of thread and in some cases you'll just have one. So like on this one I'm going to more over to the next thread bridge pull it through back up through the bead I just strung and now actually I think on that one just the way that they're sitting I'm going to actually go ahead and go anyways to the next bridge of thread. I'm not going go back to that same one again but knowing how this works, chances are probably pretty good that with this current bridge thread I'm going to go through it again and remember when I say bridge thread I'm talking about the top line of thread right here that connects the beads on your first row I'll show you that one more time I want to go through that same bridge of thread and back up I think now you can see the difference. So here's where I was going one second row bead through each row each bridge of thread and here I was making a decision if it was one or two beads per bridge of thread and I'm just scooting my beads tightly together. I'm just making sure they line up So this is a design choice you got to make. Once you've decided you'll go ahead and bead the entire second row and I'm going to actually take out these beads that I've done right here and I'm going to go ahead and bead them all so that they're tightly together so when we're done with that whole second row go ahead and progress onto the third row which is actually a decorative edge I finished beading my second row and all I have to do is add my last bead I'm going to do that the same way I've added all the other ones pick up the bead up under the bridge and back through the bead that you just strung and pull tight now I want to take my thread and go through the first bead that I strung in the second row so I'm creating that bridge between the two go back up through the last bead I strung and pull so that row is now complete now I need to add the third row which is the decorative edge you'll see that here and to do so I've pulled a smaller size bead. I have size 15/0 here we're going to do this row differently pickup one bead go under the nearest thread bridge on the second row and pull snug pick up another of the size 15/0 bead find the next bridge of thread go under it pull through make sure all your beads sit right just by manipulating them now whereas in the second row we decided that we want one or two beads per bridge of thread for this third and final row we're going to keep at one bead per bridge of thread so this row actually goes a bit quicker you're just making that edge do that all the way around I beaded the third row which is going to be the exterior row with the decorative edge I'm going to add my last bead I'll add it the same way added all the others pick it up, go under the last bridge of thread pull through. So now we have three complete rows and what's left to do on this part of the toggle is to add our bail so we've done brick stitch around the quick link and now for the bail we're actually going to do flat peyote stitch and you can see that it looks like it gets larger and that's because it starts with a size 15/0 and then we graduate to the size 11/0 so the actual decorative edge it's gonna be the first a row of your peyote stitch so go ahead, you've pulled your thread through, your finished your row go down through a bead in the second row and pull through I just want this row to be a little bit more secure before I start adding more beads. So now just go back through another bead in the second row come out the top side It's going to give me a little bit more to work with go through one of my 15/0 beads which is already secured and I'm gonna add another size 15/0 bead and then go through the bead which is next to it again on that outer edge and pull snug until it fits side by side and add another bead and go through the 15/0 bead next to the one I just came out of I'm filling in that gap and pulling so I'm going to add what is it a third bead to my outside decorative edge which will mean I have a row of seven beads which are all connected touching each other so now I'm going to start with my peyote stitch adding another size 15/0 bead and going back through what was the third bead I added to the exterior edge pick up another size 15/0 skip over the bead which was the actual edge go through what was the second bead that you added pull tight pick up another bead skip over the one which was actually on the edge originally again go through the first bead you added pick up another bead you can see where we've got these nice almost like teeth going here go through this one here come out you can see how they are starting to stack we're going to do a total of five rows of the size 15/0 beads you can see we're counting the first row as the one which is part of our decorative edge. It would be one two three four. So we've got one more to go we've completed that what you want to do is we're going to continue on but we're going to change the bead that we're using and go ahead and go to our size 11/0 and it's going to be in the color that we used our second row around that link do the same exact process with a different bead we don't need to change any of you're pattern this time we're going to do three rows. So that's one row which we just did this is what we got so far. We're going to add five rows of the first color we did which is size 11/0 again go back through that second color that we used do three more rows not changing the stitch pattern at all just using different colors and sizes at the ends we've got three rows of that second color. Now add five more rows of the silver which was the smaller size 15/0 you're all done with part. This what we've got now we've got five rows, three, five, three, five fold you're bead work in half so that your two ends meet so this is where you started. Now you have your end piece line up the edges so that they're flush together and we are just going to sew your bail together going through the outer edge because my thread is coming out of the edge here. Go through the bead which is along the decorative edge here on the outside go through it going up through the second bead again on your edge that you folded over go down through another beading on your edge. I actually skipped over one and now I'm going to through the second what would be the third one from the edge go back into your bead work along the edge you folded over your doing every other one on the bottom edge. You're doing every other one of the top edge it can be a little tricky to see in the video but I'll make sense once you look at it back through one along the outer decorative edge and I'm going to take my thread which is right here. I've got one more to go. Now go back through this here get my needle under here. You can see this is the edge that I folded over and go back through that edge all three beads along that last row, that fifth row and now your bail is secure on there you have a nice bail which looks good on both sides now what you would do with this end here is you'll tie off your thread and you'll incorporate both back into your bead weaving. You'll go ahead and rethread your needle onto this tail tie it off rework it back into your bead weaving the same with this edge as well we actually had another video at on how to do that and then you'll be done with half of your toggle clasp now we have to make the toggle bar and to do this that you want to cut and condition three feet of beading thread and thread a needle onto it and for this one we're going to need a bead stop, So just any bead you have around. Just a different color than the beads you're working with thread that on and go ahead scoot it down to the bottom until you have about eight inches and just secure it by simply tying the thread around it once. You don't want to tie a knot because you want to be able to remove it and this is just is going to hold your beads in place now for the actual bar itself we're going to do flat even count peyote stitch. We do have another video on showing how to do this but I'm going to quickly show as well we're going to want to place onto our needle sixteen of our size 11/0 of the deep color purple which was the color we used on the interior of our round once you got those on your needle, scoot them all the way down so they're are right up against the bead stop and now we're going to go ahead and make our second row so the first bead is a little hard to tell when you're using all the same color so if you do when check out that other video uses contrast in colors. So if you do check out that other video it uses contrasting colors which is a little easier to see how to do the stitch itself if you're not familiar so we've beaded on another of the same color bead here was my sixteenth bead. I'm going to skip over that bead and I'm going to go to the bead next to it because the bead I strung on is going to be the first bead in my next row you can see how that stacked up against itself right there I've got two stacked together. You're going to have to manipulate them a little bit in the first couple rows here. The tension can be a little bit wonky but once you do more stitching it'll even out. Your just going to go ahead and help it along as you go and I'll show you that in a minute skip over one bead go into the bead next to it pull do that all the way along the edge until you've reach the end. So I picked up one more bead skipping over a bead going into a bead next to it when you get to the end you should have something that looks like this it's kinda curbing and tension is a little bit off, just try to help it along as much as you can, just by using your fingers and pulling that thread tighter here now we're going to create another row. So what we're gonna do is the same thing as we did before place one bead onto your needle and now we're going to go up and go through here. You can actually see little gaps and that's where we're gonna go ahead and place our beads go through that bead which is protruding upwards and you'll see the tension is a little off here you can help that by just pulling on side bead now another bead If check out the other video that does have the contrast in colors and a little bit larger beads if you need a little help with this stitch keep the same process one bead skip a over bead go to the bead which is standing a little bit up and you'll see that as you do more it starts to straighten out the rows become more even just can't keep doing this process and what you need to do is you need to create twelve rows so were on our third row and you're just keep doing the same stitch back and forth until we've done twelve rows once you've finished your twelve rows, your bead weaving should look like this. You've got your flat even count peyote with the bead stop still on the end and now we're going to zip it up and the way you can tell that this is going to zip up okay and when I say zip up it means you're going to bring the two sides together and form a tube and that's going to come together you can tell because there's an indent here and if you follow that column this part protrudes and those two sides are going to come together and fit nicely so what you want to do is actually you want to fold your bead work and you want to go now up through this bead so it might be easier see if I show you like this to begin with arch my thread all the way from there to there from the start point to the end point pull it together now I want to go through this bead here, so all the beads are protruding out you want to stitch through go through the next side your literally zipping this up like the teeth of the zipper and I find it is the easiest to do two beads at once I take my needle go at a diagonal make sure my tension is holding well go back here two more beads and they're the ones that are sticking out more what you're going to do is go in go through the last bead and then you're gonna want to go right under the beads stopper down through that very first bead and I like to go next to a couple beads next to it there you go you've got the bar part and we're going to add the decorative edge to the bar separately. So what you want to do in this part you wanna go ahead tie off your thread and weave back into your bead weaving and also remove the bead stop tie off your thread and weave part of the tail back in the bead weaving and rethread our thread and do an decorative edge I started a new thread and I incorporated it into my bead work and I ended with the thread coming out of one of the top beads now if you didn't have enough thread from when you're doing the original stitching, you want to go ahead and just not tie off the thread and start a new one, you could. I'd like having this structure sound and done and complete and starting a thread for the top but that's totally up to you place one bead on your needle again this is another one that's a size 11/0 and just my other color from the other half my toggle clasp we've got these bridges of thread along the top sides as well just like we did when we made the other half of the toggle clasp and so what I'm going to do is coming from the back which is the interior of my other circle here of my tube I'm going to place my needle under that first bridge of thread which is next to the bead that I came out of and pull and I'm just going to go ahead and pick up another bead go under the next bridge of thread and pull This is very much like whip stitching in sewing. If you're familiar with that and I'm going to this all the way along the edge last one you can see I've a round but I want this to be even more of a round shape. I'm actually gonna go through the actual hole of the beads I'd just strung and connect them all together go all the way around and back through the first one as well pull my thread together and that's gonna pull those beads towards the center I'm going to thread onto my needle one more of my original purple size 11/0 bead and I want this one to end up in the middle so I'm going to go ahead arch over and go through a bead on the opposite side pull that that one's going to end up in the middle now I'm actually just gonna go through some of my bead work as part of the round cylinder, the round tube to help to secure that after I've gone through a couple beads. You always wanna follow your bead path and put my needle in so it comes out the middle of the tube on the other side that's nice and secure now I wanna make sure that this needle is actually comes out through one of the actual holes stick my needle through the side come out on top do the same thing for this side as I did for the other side and then I'll tie off my thread now that our actual toggle bar is done we need to have a way to actually attach the toggle bar to the necklace which is going to be with the bail. It's basically the same principle we did with the other half of our clasp follow that exact guideline but we're gonna start the flat peyote stitch on an individual thread, where as with this one we actually integrated it into the bead work itself from the weaving we were already doing and so to begin do the same process that we did to begin the actual bar we're gonna go ahead put our bead stop on so to start we're going to take our size 15/0 bead and place four of them onto our needle and we are just going to start peyote stitching this, so that is our first row, we have four go ahead place another bead onto your needle skip over that other first bead that last bead of that row skip over a bead and then now you are actually going into the first bead we strung so now we've got our second row make the the third string on a bead skip over that last bead that last bead we just did skip over a bead go through so we got three rows to make the bail part stitch seven rows of the smallest size bead which for me is the silver which is a size 15/0 then do five rows of size 11/0 or whatever the middle bead is that you've got in the other half your toggle clasp then do seven rows of the darkest color which is the same color you used for the actual bar and again it's size 11/0 then another five rows of the other size 11/0 or whatever size you're using and then another seven rows of the 15/0 which is the silver after you've stitched all your rows it should look like this which is very similar to what it looked like here for at the other half of your toggle clasp now I want you to stitch one more row of the smallest size bead you've stitched one more row take your needle off of your thread we're going to do a little something that's gonna make life a little less frustrating in a few minutes take off our bead stop. I actually find easiest just to go ahead and put my needle through it slide it all the way off I'm going to rethread my needle onto here and I'm going to tie off my thread and incorporate it back We have a video showing how to this. I'll just do this really quickly right here following my bead line, my stitching, so I don't have any threads that show take my thread zapper to get rid of this thread right here It's going to be a lot easier to zip up with the bead stopper gone go back rethread your needle we're going to zip this up the same way we zipped up our other piece so member like the teeth of the zipper think of it that way and you zip up a zipper, your zipping up your bead weaving go through I got that arch again pull this through pull it together in half go through the next bead back to the other side the other one and finally the other side and look now everything's flush. If you wanted to make a ring making peyote stitch you would actually follow this exact same pattern that you just did for this little bail you just add more beads and then you would have a ring little tip there if that's something you're interested in making go through a couple of beads. I want to make sure that this is very secure again I'm following my stitching pattern so you don't want any threads to show and I want it to exit on one end. I don't want to exit in the middle it's folded in half and now I just need to attach it to my bar to attach your bail to your toggle bar you're basically just going to sew it onto your bar using the beads figure out where the center is, eyeball the bead you want to go through for me it's gonna be this one right here but I don't want to go through it in this direction because then my bail is going to end up on the side, so I want to go through the other direction and take my needle out, still eyeballing where the bead is, which bead it is go through it go through the other beads, I can get my needle back into the direction I want to be going in then I want to come back through the beads until I get to my bail again and I want to start beading into my bail I wanna actually go ahead put my needle through the bail then also through a bead that's part of the toggle bar you might meet need to move around your positioning of your hands you've basically just going to try to find a way to stitch this on, go through another bead go through another bead in my bail go through another bead in the toggle bar go through the bail again I can tell it's getting nice and firm I want it a little firmer though you just keep doing this until you feel like that is nice and tight and a good bond when you do do some integrating of your thread back into your bead work that is not going anywhere. It's nice and strong you are done and go ahead and tie off that thread and you've created a toggle bar to match your bead weaving projects. Go to to purchase beading supplies and to get design ideas!

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