Substitutions in Jewelry Making – What Works and What Doesn’t

Just like in baking, sometimes in jewelry making you need to make substitutions when there is an ingredient that you do not have. I personally love substitutions because it flexes my creativity and I can still proceed with a project, using what I have. Now the one thing to keep in mind is that these substitutions “generally” work for most designs. You will need to assess the individual design and see if it will work.

Head pins, eye pins, and jump rings. One very easy substitution is if you do not have the right size wire gauge of head pins, eye pins, and jump rings, is that you can usually go with a smaller gauge.  For instance, if you know a 20-gauge head pin works for your design, then you can sub in a 21-gauge head pin just fine (for gauges, the bigger the number, the thinner the wire). Same thing if you know a 21-gauge 4mm jump ring works for your design, then a 22-gauge 4mm jump ring will work as well. The one thing to keep in mind is the strength of the finding if you jump a few sizes. For instance, if you sub in a 24-gauge head pin for a 21-gauge head pin, and the original design called for a simple wire loop, then you might need to adjust the design and use a wrapped wire loop with the 24-gauge head pin for added security. Also remember that with head pins and eye pins, you can always go longer. So, if a design calls for 1.5-inch head pin, a 2 inch or 3 inch will absolutely work as well.

Seed beads. Seed beads of the same size and shape (for example: 8/0, 11/0, round or cylinder) are usually able to be swapped between designs. For instance, if you have a peyote stitch pattern that calls for 11/0 Miyuki Delicas, you can use 11/0 Toho Aikos instead; both are cylinder shaped. The one thing to keep in mind is that each bead brand/shape will “lock” together a little differently. So, if you sub in one color of Toho Aiko for a Miyuki Delica, but keep all the other colors as Delicas, then the pattern might not fit together quite as neatly as if they were all Aikos or all Delicas. Toho round beads can usually be substituted for Miyuki round beads as well, and vice versa. Just remember to keep the size the same and the shape the same when making seed beads substitutions.

Crimp covers. If you need a 3mm crimp bead cover but only have 4mm ones, you can use the 4mm ones instead. You can always go bigger with crimp bead covers.

Beading thread. Thread is a huge category and very easy to make substitutions. If a project calls for Nymo thread, you can easily substitute Toho One-G. They are very similar nylon beading threads, and both work well for loom work and embroidery (as well as other techniques as well). If you are doing bead weaving and a project calls for Fireline or Wildfire, you can really use either one and be fine. They both come in similar weights, and both are very sturdy. Most people have a personal preference of Wildfire or Fireline but if only one is available or you have already purchased one and want to use it, it will be fine.

Clasps. Unless it’s a clasp that is also a strand reducer, you can usually choose whatever clasp you want for a design. If you love spring ring clasps but the project calls for a lobster clasp, feel free to go ahead and use the spring ring. You can do this with all styles of clasps and choose your favorite (even swapping in magnetic clasps). The only thing to keep in mind is to make sure you have the correct components for both sides of the clasp (spring ring and appropriately sized chain tag or jump ring, etc.) and that your substitution is roughly the same size.

Jewelry making should be fun and not stressful. As a designer, feel free to explore and deviate from the pattern. Also, feel free to make substitutions. Let your creativity flow!

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