How To Use Nunn Design Bead Cores to Make a Crystal Pave Bead

SKU VID-0150
Designer: Julie Bean
In this video see how to use epoxy clay combined with Nunn Design channel bead cores to make a Austrian crystal pave bead. Create your own design or follow the one demonstrated in this video.

The brand name for the crystals shown in this video is no longer available. High quality Austrian crystals are now available under the PRESTIGE™ Crystal Components line.

Audio Transcript
Note: This audio transcript is auto-generated and may not be completely accurate.
Hi, this is Julie with Beadaholique.com I want to show you how to use Nunn Design channel bead cores to make your own pave set crystal bead. What you're going to need is some epoxy clay. I've got some white crystal clay here. If this was brand new the packet size would be about this large. As you can see I've used it for other projects. It does go quite a long way. I've got a variety of shapes and finishes here for the bead cores including one which has already been turned into a pendant and actually it comes out that way which is very handy. I've got assorted shapes and sizes of Swarovski chatons. I also have more than just one size available when I'm doing a project like this in case you get to the end if calls for a little bit larger or a little bit smaller of a chaton. I've got an applicator tool. This is a Magic Pick. It allows me to pick up my chatons very easily. I've a pair of gloves here for when I mix my clay. We have a full video showing how use crystal clay. How to mix it up and all the nuances of it. If you want an more in-depth explanation of crystal clay and how to mix it please refer to that video. I'm going to show you to do it here real quick and we're going to fast forward through all my mixing till we get to the actual project. Now that the crystal clay is all mixed up I have it in a ball shape and I'm going to take the size of the bead core right here. Now I want to transfer that onto that. To do that I'm going to take it in my hands I'm going to roll it into a longer cylinder shape. Tap it down lightly so it's just a little bit flatter. I want it to be approximately the width of the bead core itself. I'm going to take my gloves off just because it's a little bit harder to work with with the gloves on. Place that into the channel carefully work it around pinching it as I go. You have an hour to an hour and a half work time with crystal clay once you've mixed it. So don't worry about rushing this process. I like the delicate little detail in there on the edge of the bead core so I don't wanna go over that edge. Just pressing this into place gently pulling at it but I don't wanna actually drag it because crystal clay might show some cracks if I do that. Once I've got it all the way around to smooth it out I'm going to roll it between my fingers. I can see where my seam was so I'm just gonna keep working with this area until I feel like it's smoothed over. Again roll between my fingers I wanna make sure you look at it from the side and I want to make sure there is no big bulge. That it's not thicker on one edge then the other. Feels pretty even. I'm happy with that. SO now what I'm going to do is apply my chatons. The Magic Pick comes with this handy little pad. It has a piece of tape on it so it's sticky. That helps to make my applicator sticky or stickier and so I can easily pick up my chatons. So I'm going to take one chaton and just going to carefully press it into the clay just so that that edge of the chaton is slightly below the edge of the clay. You can do whatever pattern you want. I'm going to apply these on an diagonal. There is no wrong way of doing this as long as you get the edge of the crystal below the edge of the clay you're going to be fine. You come up with the a whole of patterns, whatever you like. I'm actually going to do a second row of the same color right next to the first. I'm just trying to hold it right on the hardware, just on the metal so that I'm not touching that clay. I'm going to rotate it again and switch my color and I'm just going to keep following my pattern. You're going to do that all the way around your bead. I've gotten back to basically where I started. I got this one gap. I can do one more row of one of the colors. I could do the darker kind of orangey color or the the lighter gold or I can use one of my larger stones. and looking at that that's going to going to be a little too large. This why I have a lot on hand when I play with these things. I think I'm going to go for the darker color. So one side will have just a little bit more of the darker color and that is totally fine. It's going to look great. We'll pretend it's part of the design. There you go. And when you're all done what I suggest you do is as your setting these you can kind of feel that the clay is shifting a little bit so slightly go over the top. If you do this light enough you're not gonna get fingerprints in there. I'm going to roll it again very very gently. I want to make sure all those chatons are set. And I would suggest you let this dry in a upright position overnight before you start working with it again. And there we go. You have a beautiful custom done sparkling bead. Go to Beadaholique.com for all of your beading supply needs!

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